Cremation Ritual

Today we were invited to a cremation ceremony by my Balinese friend D'Ayu. Yesterday Elsa and I went to her house to make preparation for the preliminary washing of the body (before the burning).

leaf containers filled with herbs, spices, bits of mirror, wax, plants, seeds, etc

a pile of offerings at the threshold - woven palm leaf offerings, food, baby coconut, flowers

D'Ayu is an expert offerings maker (tukang banten in the Indonesian language) so people from all over come to her to have her make preparations for various rituals and ceremonies. This cremation ceremony was for a member of her family so we had a very intimate experience in the family compound watching the high priest bless the proceedings. It's a magical and very private experience and not one I felt comfortable documenting.

We all sat with D'Ayu on the same platform as the priest. He was all dressed in white, chanting, ringing a large brass bell, making mudras with his hands, sprinkling holy water and flowers all around. Lots of burning incense and fragrant flowers. There were elaborate piles of offerings made of woven palm leaves and food and flowers everywhere. Elsa was content and intent - sitting comfortably on the platform with us, D'Ayu, the priests and other Balinese family members. So poised and mannered! I stole many glances at my little girl - witnessed her watching and wondering at the world she was in.

The washing of the body is a truly amazing experience. The elder woman had died three days ago and she had remained in her house being tended to by her family. She was wrapped in cloth and carried out into the yard by the men. The priest tended to prayers and blessings and then the body was unwrapped. D'Ayu had Elsa hold her hand by the priest's platform so she could see the process. The family does an elaborate, tender washing of their loved one's body - with oils, waters, spices, flowers - and then she is wrapped again in a clean white cloth and held by the men high above their heads as they form a tunnel for close family members to walk through. They formed a circle train (men, women and children) as they processed through the tunnel under their loved one again and again. It's an incredibly moving ritual to witness. There was sadness but for the most part there was laughter and love and everyday chatting and tending to crying babies in the compound while all of this was going on. The Balinese believe in reincarnation (into the same family group) so this is essentially a joyous moment for the family. This ritual is one of my favorites as it makes so much sense to me on a deep heart level. After the washing, the body is carried (often accompanied by a large tower built with wood and paper and fabric) to the cemetery where is burned, bonfire style. We went to the cemetery with the procession but passed on the burning....